700-1510 Fasse Remote Master

• 700-1510 Fasse Remote Master Cylinder
• Fasse Hydraulic Multiplier Parts

Fasse Remote Master hydraulic multiplier, 2 circuit selector valve with ISO couplers and tips. Fasse ISO Remote Master Hydraulic Doubler Valve Kit I am looking at adding another set of SCV 's to the back of my tractor in order to run a hydro chute on the blower and a angle cyl on a possible front plow.

700-1510 could not be added as a favorite. Please make sure you are logged in.700-1510 Fasse Remote Master, 2 circuit selector valve.Includes toggle switch box w/mounting bracket, 12 ft.

Wiring harness, 6 ft. Power wires, eccentric fittings, ISO couplers and tips, colored dust plugs and caps, 12 volt bi-polar coils, fuse kit, connectors, installation and operators guide. Operates multiple functions from one remote outlet. Allows tractor float operation on selected circuits. Either double or single acting cylinder operation. Use on Open, Closed or FPC hydraulic systems. Capacity up to 20 gpm.

3000 psi rated. Shoup Manufacturing offers original quality or OEM replacement parts for agricultural equipment, including tractors, planters, grain drills, combines, balers, cultivators, discs, sprayers and more. The parts shown are not sponsored, affiliated, nor otherwise connected in any way with the equipment manufacturers named on this website. The use of original manufacturer's part numbers are for reference purposes only. The use of color on this site does not necessarily represent the manufacturer of the part. © 2019 Shoup Manufacturing.

Just looked at the date this was posted; if you tightened it to much you probably know by now what i write here; You probably have done it well but just make sure that you do not crank down the spring too tight. I assume what you are tightening is the hyd pressure bypass. If the bypass is not working properly every time you extend or retract the cylinder fully, the pressure in your whole system will spike and generally the first thing to go is a hydraulic hose. I have replaced many of my hoses because I had exactly the same problem and tightened the bypass a bit to tight. As you probably know hoses are a pain in the ass to replace as hydraulic shops don’t have this thread, they (or the best one i found anyhow) have one close which works, but definitely is not correct. David,Thanks for your assistance.

I believe the engine oil has hydraulic fluid mixed in with it. Yes the temperature was normal. I believe the oil pressure was good.

I hadn’t noticed any signs of low pressure. I purchased the tractor used with 400 hours, so I don’t know about torquing the head after 50 hours, but it has not been torqued since I have owned in two years.I’m thinking about pulling the hydraulic pump to see what I can see. Any more ideas you can provide would be welcome.Thanks,Cal Miller. Oh, one more thought.It could be that the loader control valve is dumping all the output from the pump back into the tank and there is not enough pressure to actuate the hitch.Does the power steering still work? There probably is a priority valve that makes sure steering actuates before other hydraulics.Here is a trick I use to get the hydraulic fluid flowing faster in the winter.Raise the loader all the way up, then with one hand hold the 3 point lever in the raise position while lowering the loader with the other hand. On my 284 this seems to help force fluid into the hitch when it is cold.

Don’t know if this will help your system or not, but it certainly won’t hurt to try and might give you some clues as to where the problem is. Back to front on the spring function Bob. It’s probably a different set-up to what you’re used to. As opposed to a manual clutch on a car, the dozer shuttle springs act to maintain separation of the clutch plates, not hold them together. In neutral there is about 3mm clearance between both pistons and their clutch plates. When F or R is selected oil flow is diverted through one of two galleries that run lengthways through the shuttle shaft exiting a port behind a piston. Hydraulic pressure then overcomes the force of the spring and the piston clamps the clutch plates together directing drive (in the selected direction) to the transmission.Today I had the “pleasure” of reassembling my shuttle with new seals.

For the benefit of anyone else having to do this job I will explain how it was done. Understand that it is necessary to compress and hold a strong spring while fitting a split collar retainer on one end and a circlip retainer on the other. It had me scratching my head for a while until I noticed that the shaft would slip through the 40mm bore on my lathe.

To fit the split collar I held the shaft tight in the 3 jaw chuck and compressed the spring using the tool post on one side and a g-clamp on the other. This allowed enough wriggle room to fit the split collar into it’s grove on the shaft.

The circlip was easier. I first set it in position against the spring then slipped the long shaft through the bore (leaving the chuck loose).

The tailstock was used to push the shaft deeper into the bore until the circlip snapped into place.After assembly I tested the shuttle function with compressed air. I made a new gasket for the clutch end plate with new o-rings for the oil passages. I got the motor back in with assistance from the better half.

700-1510 Fasse Remote Master Cylinder

Fell in easier than I expected, must have been the offsider. Have finished putting all parts together and have installed gauge under F-N-R selector. Tapped 1/8 BSPT gauge into T piece from pump. Once all fluids checked and topped up, motor started and warmed up for a few minutes.

I had gears in neutral, gauge was showing 10psi when in neutral and then increased to above 60psi (full scale), when either forward or reverse was selected. The pressure adjustment screw made no difference.

So this had me scratching my head and I need to investigate the hydraulic selector and pressure relief a bit more, to make sure it is all clean while trying to alos understnad the porting. I took a heap more pics so let me know if there is something in particular you want to see.Mark. Thanks for the reply. A squeal was there before the knocking, but I put it down to normal as I had nothing to compare it to. I can’t say that I notice the squeal now, but the knocking is consistent when it is in forward or reverse and appears to be coming from the front of the shuttle clutch behind the engine. It started before I changed the oil.

I have checked the strainer and it was clear and oil was relatively clean with minor build up on magnet plug. The oil I put in was Penrite EP 220.It engages and drives but the knocking is continuous and I won’t drive it until I fix the problem to avoid any further damage.I will draw the hydraulic circuit to confirm that we are talking about the same type of clutch.I have added a pic, because everyones love pics. It shows the lid top of shuttle cluth.

Fasse Hydraulic Multiplier Parts

Dipstick, breather and pressure relief return after it has passed through a cooler in front of the radiator. I have my dozer stripped down and the shuttle clutch in pieces at the moment. The dozer was very slow to engage reverse and once engaged emitted a hydraulic squeal. I found the problem to be a damaged o-ring on the piston.Need more information. Is the knocking sound the only issue or does your dozer have difficulty engaging forward and/or reverse?

If it engages ok then I wouldn’t expect hydraulic pressure to be the problem.Does it knock just once upon engagement or is it a continuous knocking? Did the knocking start after or before you changed the oil in the shuttle compartment?

What oil did you fill it with?